Marseille
Marseille is my favourite city/town in France. I first visited Marseille in late 1976, after a ferry ride from Algiers to Marseille following a trip into the Algerian desert.
Then some years back, my dear wife June and I spent a couple of days in Marseille. She is convinced that the Phoenicians and ancient Greeks always knew the best places to settle. And Marseille is a wonderful spot.
Now back to the present. After two weeks convalescing with a flu in the midst of Paris’ miserable late autumn weather, I just had to break out. I examined the weather patterns of France, and discovered that virtually the only spot with moderately warm and sunny weather was Marseille. So off I went.
Marseille is wonderful. A beautiful old port, with a hilly topography behind. Beautiful historic architecture.
Marseille does have a bad reputation among many Parisians. Organised crime. Drug trafficking. Dirt, grime and squalor. All of that may be true. But for me, it has an earthy, authentic atmosphere which is seductive.
What’s more, Marseille is the home of bouillabaisse.
Bouillabaisse was originally a dish made by Marseille fishermen, using bony rockfish, which they were unable to sell to restaurants or markets. There are at least three kinds of fish in a traditional bouillabaisse: typically red rascasse (Scorpaena scrofa); sea robin; and European conger.
It can also include gilt-head bream, turbot, monkfish, mullet, or European hake. It usually also includes shellfish and other seafood such as sea urchins, mussels, velvet crabs, spider crabs, or octopus. Vegetables such as leeks, onions, tomatoes, celery, and potatoes are simmered together with the broth and served with the fish.
What makes a bouillabaisse different from other fish soups is the selection of Provençal herbs and spices in the broth; the use of bony local Mediterranean fish; the way the fish are added one at a time, and brought to a boil; and the method of serving. In Marseille, the broth is served first in a soup plate with slices of bread and rouille, then the fish is served separately on a large platter.
I asked my hotel for a recommendation of a restaurant that makes the best bouillabaisse in Marseille, and was advised to try “Miramar”.
Quite frankly, I was a little disappointed. But I may have harboured false dreams in my mind. The broth was a little bland. The fish in the bouillabaisse were very strongly flavoured. Anyway, I did it! I tasted bouillabaisse again after all these years.
On my second day, I lowered my aspirations, and ordered a fish soup for lunch in another restaurant. It was richly flavoured and delicious.
The last thing to mention is that one of the great songs of a 1970s Australian hard rock band, “The Angels”, is entitled “Marseille”. “Take me away to Marseille” is its thumping chorus.
Do yourself a favour and have a listen — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CPkanDMMiwc .