Two great bistros
In recent times, I have been rather critical of restaurants in Paris. Surprisingly, I have recently discovered two excellent bistros
So, dear reader, you may ask what exactly is a French bistro?
In its original Parisian form, a bistro is a small neighborhood restaurant, serving moderately priced, simple meals in a modest homely setting. Bistros are not temples of haute cuisine, but places for affordable and simple food. Typical bistro dishes include French onion soup, coq au vin, ratatouille, steak frites, croque monsieur, salade Niçoise, and tarte tatin.
A popular folk etymology claims that the word originated among Russian troops who, following the Battle of Paris in March 1814, occupied the city and visited tiny places to drink a coffee. They might have shouted bistro! bistro! (Russian: быстро, lit. ’quickly’) when they wished to be served quickly. However, this etymology has been dismissed by linguists, because there is no attestation to the occurrence of the term until the late 19th century.
More recently, the term bistro has also become used by more pretentious restaurants. Indeed, the Oxford Companion to Food comments that the idea of simple inexpensive food served in a French atmosphere has wide appeal, so that by the end of the 20th century the term had “begun to be annexed by more pretentious premises”.
Just around the corner from our apartment, I discovered “Le Petit Rétro” (5 rue Mesnil 75116 PARIS), a wonderful little bistro. Just entering the bistro, one is charmed by the magnificent 1900 setting, with its large zinc counter, its walls and ceilings decorated with typical Art Nouveau earthenware tiles from Charles-Edouard Haviland’s Atelier d’Auteuil, its wooden cabinet where the many regulars stored their napkin rings, and its impeccably table clothed tables.
Chef Miguel Gonzales creates bistro-inspired market cuisine that showcases seasonal produce, while Maxime Quarré, his sidekick in the dining room, showcases small winemakers and large estates .
In true bistro spirit, I consumed traditional onion soup with AOP comté cheese, beef Bourguignon, and Ile flottante (floating island) with Madagascar vanilla and salted butter caramel. I accompanied this with two glasses of Châteauneuf-du-pape, château Mongin 2015. Very delicious, with impeccable service.
I was introduced to “Quarante & Un” (literally 41), a lively bistro, by my good friend David. It is located at 41 Avenue Mozart, 75016 Paris. On arriving, I was quickly seduced by its neo-industrial decor, warm atmosphere and the friendliness of the team. In fact, Quarante & Un is more than a bistro, serving as a cafe where you can take breakfast or a little drink.
I took confit de canard (duck confit), one of my very favourite dishes, and followed again with an Ile flottante. These were washed down by a robust red Côtes du Rhône wine.
These recent discoveries confirm that with some research and persistence, you can still find good food in Paris. Bon Appétit!