Train from Saigon to Hanoi
The Lonely Planet guide praises the Reunification Express, the main north-south train line from Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) to Hanoi, as one of the world’s most atmospheric and unforgettable overnight train journeys.
They write that this approximately 1,726 km journey takes about two days and connects major cities, offering stunning scenery, coastal views, and a cultural experience through interactions with fellow travelers. Passengers can choose between soft seats or various sleeper cabin options.
My experience on the Reunification Express was less thrilling, in part due to heavy rains and flooding in central Vietnam.
In the days leading up to my departure from Sydney to Saigon, I was following the terrible weather in central Vietnam. Torrential rain, flooding, tourist evacuations, many deaths. And cancellation of the famous train.
But my never-say-die spirit pushed ever onwards. At 5.30 am the other day I went to Saigon railway station to suss out the situation. I received very little information, but I managed to buy a ticket. A good start!
We were told to be at the platform 30 minutes before takeoff. For the few Westerners there — two Germans, a Spanish girl and me — this was a moment of hilarity, as takeoff was delayed for one hour belying Vietnam’s reputation for efficiency.
It only became clear to me at takeoff that the train compartments had four bunk beds. I had bought an upper bunk. And it also became clear that according to Vietnamese protocol you should spend the whole 34 hours of the trip up in your bunk.
The first big issue was how I could find a better seating arrangement than my upper bunk bed. So I charmed a lady conductor, who understood my plight and could see that she had an opportunity for some side business.
She offered me a small room (coffin size) usually used by a staff member, for the princely sum of one million dong — sounds a lot, but it only represents $38US, $59AUS or $33 euro. I could not give her the money quickly enough!
Lesson number one — always carry some local currency in countries where facilitation payments may become necessary.
The train had a very shabby little restaurant, as well as some staff with a trolley of very shabby food. Lesson number two, bring some food with you as most of the locals seemed to do, but I did not do..
The toilets on the train were simply disgusting. The lesson I quickly drew was to eat as little as possible to avoid needing to go to the toilet.
The scenery was rather attractive in parts. Waterways. Coasts. Mountains, etc. But it was not stunning. But my 34 hour trip included 10 hours of nighttime, during which we may have passed through some scenic highlights. So another lesson is to check all this out.
Another point is that the wet season may not be the optimal time to take this train trip.
But the main lesson of all is to sit back and enjoy the unique experience. Most tourists to Vietnam get carted in big buses to museums, souvenir shops and restaurants. This is boring stuff. In the train you are out there on the cold face of life, and it is great fun, especially when you arrive, and you only have good memories left.