Shimokitazawa


 

According to the demographers, Tokyo would be the world’s biggest city with a population of over 37 million people.  That’s 32 percent more than the population of Australia!

In reality, Tokyo doesn’t exist, according to my good Japanese friend, Hiro.  What he means is that what is called Tokyo is a bunch of different cities, jammed together, giving the impression that it is one whole city.

In short, with all its different cities and districts, Tokyo has something for everyone.  And one place you cannot miss is Shimokitazawa (or Shimokita).  This is a hip cultural quarter with a lingering old-Tokyo vibe in Setagaya. 

Narrow, mural-painted lanes are lined with stylish stores for vintage clothes and vinyl. Craft cafes and brewpubs host art shows and live bands, while bakeries and bistros serve inventive pastries and veggie curries. Edgy new plays debut at Honda Gekijo Theater, and young directors screen short movies at Tollywood cinema.

So I was rather excited when my good friend Richard suggested having dinner there at a place called Tsuge.

Tsuge is an izakaya (居酒屋), which sort of means a pub, Japanese style.  The word Izakaya is made up of three kanji (Chinese characters) with the meaning, in order, “stay-drink-place.”

In practical terms what happens is that you order several plates of food, which you share.  And of course this is washed down by liberal quantities of alcohol – typically beer, high ball (whiskey and soda, with a slice of lemon) or “grapefruit sour” (shochu and grapefruit juice).

Now Richard is a fascinating guy.  A New Yorker, who has lived in Europe and is now a Japanese resident.  Moreover, he is a great thought leader on all things Japan, geopolitics and geoeconomics, notably through his Beacon Reports – https://beaconreports.substack.com/

Needless to stay, we analysed and discussed the world.  I do not remember if we came to any firm conclusions.  

But as usual, it was loads of fun.  Thanks Richard!


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