Lavaux, Switzerland
Yesterday I went in search of the beautiful Lavaux vineyards. I had seen them at a distance from the train during previous visits to Switzerland.
The Lavaux vineyards stretch for about 30 km along the south-facing northern shores of Lake Geneva (or Lac Léman in French), in between the towns of Lausanne and Vevey. In the canton of Vaud, Lavaux consists of 830 hectares of terraced vineyards.
These vineyards are so beautiful that they have been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2007. My dear wife, who is Philippine Ambassador to UNESCO informed me of this!
Although there is some evidence that vines were grown in the area in Roman times, the actual vine terraces can be traced back to the 11th century, when Benedictine and Cistercian monasteries controlled the area.
Lavaux benefits from a temperate climate, but the southern aspect of the terraces with the reflection of the sun in the lake and the stone walls gives a mediterranean character to the region.
Yesterday was not an ideal day to go walking in Lavaux. It was drizzling with rain and cold, and I was suffering from a cold. So I just explored all the logistics for a future visit to the area, likely next spring.
One thing that is always impressive in Switzerland is the quality of logistics. Switzerland has of course wonderful high speed trains.
But there is also a local train from Lausanne that stops every kilometre or so along the shores of Lake Geneva through to Vevey. And there is another little local train from Lausanne that climbs up and travels along the top of the ridge above the vineyard slopes. I tried both trains and can now easily plan my next wine walking adventure.
To be honest, I was not able to taste any Lavaux wines. But the Lavaux region’s chalky-clayey soil reportedly makes for distinctive wine and is ideal for producing the Chasselas grape which produces dry white wines.
Chasselas is a very old varietal that originated in the Lemanic Arc (north of Lake Geneva), where it has been known as Fendant. Chasselas ripens early while on the vine, making it an excellent choice for Switzerland’s chilly alpine slopes.
This white wine has a delicate, sweet taste and a hint of strawberry. This wine pairs well with delicate seafood dishes and cheeses.
Other grape varieties cultivated in this region are Pinot Noir and Gamay for producing red wines. Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, and Sauvignon Blanc are also cultivated in lower volumes.
In sum, yesterday was a very successful day of reconnoitering. As I venture out beyond my wine walking comfort zone, such days are necessary. I am looking forward to spending a couple of days in the Lavaux region next spring.