Japanese chef reinvents French cuisine
I have written and spoken at length about the disappointing quality of many Parisian restaurants. Unimaginative menus — Steak frites, Steak tartare, Duck confit, Sea bass, Foie gras, Chicken etc. Sloppy and inattentive service. Rarely very clean, especially in the toilets.
Financial Times journalist, Simon Kuper, has heaped praise on Parisian lunches. But he insists that you must order the menu du jour or the plat du jour, as these have been freshly prepared that morning. Everything else comes out of the deep freezer.
But Paris is a city that can always surprise you.
One day I was travelling on a Parisian bus (no.52), and noticed a seemingly new restaurant, “Ken Yamamoto” (https://www.kenyamamoto.fr/). As a one-time Japanologist, I could not resist the temptation.
All things considered. Ken Yamamoto offers a perfect restaurant experience.
The decor is traditional and classical, but very elegant and stylish, with a nice atmosphere.
The service is very courteous, and pleasant. And the food was sensational.
To be clear, Ken Yamamoto offers “French cuisine, with a Japanese touch”. Ken insists that his restaurant does not offer “fusion cuisine”. To my mind, Ken is reinventing French cuisine!
I was at Ken Yamamoto for Saturday lunch, for which a 55 euro menu was offered.
My meal began with some amuse bouches.
For entree, I ordered a turnip veloute (thickened soup). The other two dishes offered were sea bream tartare and foie-gras.
For the main course, I took cod fish on a bed of crisp vegetables. The other choice was chicken.
For dessert, I opted for white chocolate ice cream. The other choice was an assortment of cheeses.
Every dish brought together a delicate combination of herbs, spices and natural ingredients. They were quite simply a harmonious gastronomic symphony.
I could not resist starting my meal with a glass of Japanese saki. I then followed up with a glass of excellent riesling.
At the end of my meal, the server asked Ken to meet me. We had a nice pleasant chat. He is a Japanese gentleman.
Moreover, he is more than a chef. He is a food artist, with every dish being an exquisite creation.
As a matter of principle, I do not like recommending restaurants. But Ken Yamamoto is an outstanding restaurant that I recommend without any reservation whatsoever.