Enzan, Yamanashi Prefecture, Japan
Kai Winery may be small, but it is steeped in Japanese history, with its 200-year-old main building registered as a tangible cultural asset of the country.
Kai Winery is located near the town of Enzan (Yamanashi prefecture), a town that once thrived on the sericulture industry. The Winery’s main building is a remnant of that.
A sake brewery was established on the site in 1834. As sake was losing favour, and winemaking showing promise, it was transformed into a winery in 1986.
The principal grapes which are grown are Koshu (the most famous indigenous Japanese grape variety), Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon, with a small amount of Barbera, an Italian grape.
“Koki”, a budding winemaker, offered an informative visit of the vineyards, along with a tasting of three wines, a dry Koshu, a rose from Merlot and Barbera, and a Merlot. They were all excellent, especially the Koshu.
Many Westerners balk at Koshu. But as the winemakers say “We aim to create high-quality wine that matches the delicate taste and food culture of the Japanese people”. Indeed, I see Koshu as a perfect match for sushi, sashimi and tempura.
Although Kai is only a small winery, with an annual production of 30,000 bottles, it exudes professionalism and excellence. Fortunately, I was able to meet the “Shachou”, the big boss, who is obviously very proud of his winery (see photo).
Today, Japanese wines only account for about 5 percent of national wine consumption. This is bound to go up in the coming years, as the Japanese consumer realises how good their wines are.