Cheverny and Cour-Cheverny, Loire Valley
For most of the wise old experts, the wines from Cheverny and Cour-Cheverny in France’s Loire Valley are pas terrible or pas fameux — meaning not very good at all.
But the country wine areas of France are changing and modernising, thanks to younger generations taking over, who are employing modern techniques and new technologies.
DOMAINE LE PORTAIL, a vineyard in Cheverny, is a particular case in point.
Back in the mists of time, LE PORTAIL was a monastery, where viticulture has been practised for centuries by monks.
Today, LE PORTAIL is run by Damien CADOUX and his wife Delphine in a very modern way. Since 2000, they have adopted viticulture and wine production practices respectful of the environment.
In 2020, LE PORTAIL domain was certified High Environmental Value. At the same time, their wines are vinified the traditional way to preserve their authenticity and promote the terroir.
Overall, they have 32 hectares of land: 2 ha in the appellation of COUR-CHEVERNY, 29 ha in the appellation of CHEVERNY White, Rosé and Red, and 1 ha in CREMANT DE LOIRE.
Delphine walked me around the estate, explained its history and philosophy, and gave me a tasting of their wines, all of which were excellent.
The discovery for me was a white wine (Cour Cheverny 2022) made wholly from the Romorantin grape, which I hadn’t previously tasted. Romorantin is a traditional French variety of white wine grape that is a sibling of Chardonnay.
Once quite widely grown in the Loire, it is now only seen in Cour-Cheverny. It produces intense, minerally wines somewhat reminiscent of Chablis.
The other whites (80% Sauvignon and 20% Chardonnay grapes) were delightful, as was a rose (60% Pinot Noir and 40% Gamay).
The reds were particularly good, especially the “Celest’vin” Red Cheverny (75 % Pinot Noir and 25 % Gamay) which is aged in oak barrels. The winemakers are perfectly correct in highlighting its: elegant and powerful aromas on the nose, fine and well-incorporated tannins, and noting that it pairs well with meats in sauce and cheeses.
Another striking thing for me was the usage of Pinot Noir, the leading red grape variety of Burgundy, and the absence of Cabernet Franc, a grape that is used extensively further west along the Loire River.
Overall my visit to LE PORTAIL was a revelation. Its wines are of an excellent quality, and the owners are very kind and welcoming – and can even speak English, if that is necessary.
My visit to Cour-Cheverny and Cheverny was also the occasion to visit my dear old friends, Andre and Leane Barsony.