Kofu basin, home of Japanese wine
As soon as you arrive (by train, as I did), It is easy to see why Katsunuma, in the Kofu basin of Japan’s Yamanashi prefecture, is the home of the Japanese wine industry.
The Kofu basin is surrounded by very beautiful mountain ranges, including Japan’s Southern Alps. And many of the vineyards climb up the hill slopes (see photos).
Grape-growing has a long history in Japan. It reportedly began in 718 AD, in Katsunuma, and was based on the Koshu grape, which may have found its way into Japan, after travelling the Silk Road.
However, it would take until the 16th century to find regularly documented wine consumption in Japan, with the arrival of Jesuit missionaries from Portugal. Saint Francis Xavier brought wines as gifts for the feudal lords of Kyūshū.
But as with all things Japanese, it was modernisation and westernisation driven by the Meiji Restoration that would change everything, and give birth to Japan’s modern wine industry in Katsunuma. The Iwakura Mission, a delegation of over 100 Japanese leaders, government officials and students, which in 1871 set off around the world seeking blueprints for constructing a modern nation, brought back reports of wine-making in Europe.
This provided an early stimulus to Japanese winemaking. But it was not until after World War II that the scale of winemaking began to grow.
Japanese winemaking has come a long way over the years, from making sweet to elegant fine wines. European grape varieties like Chardonnay and Merlot have been introduced to complement the local varieties of Koshu and Muscat Bailey A. Wine is now also being produced in Hokkaido, as well as in Miyazaki Prefecture on the Southern island of Kyushu.
Japanese wines are now winning international prizes. And wine tourism is now developing with wineries offering visits, tastings and restaurants for visitors like me.
Japanese wine still has a long way to go. Despite their strong nationalism, most Japanese still prefer imported wine. And very little Japanese wine is exported. But just think back to how Japan conquered the world’s whiskey market. Never underestimate the Japanese!
In any event, for us wine walkers, Japan’s Kofu basin is ideal for wine walking with its stunning views and nice hills to climb.