Château Mercian in Japan
During my recent trip to Katsunuma, in the Kofu basin of Japan’s Yamanashi prefecture, I paid a visit to Château Mercian. It is a descendant of the “Dainippon Yamanashi Wine Company”, Japan’s oldest private sector wine company, founded in 1877.
But it was not until 1949 that Mercian gave birth to Japan’s first post-war brand of authentic wine, meaning wine made without adding sweeteners. Then in 1966, Mercian 1962 (white) won Japan’s first gold medal at an international wine competition.
From 1976, Shogo Asai, known as the “father of modern Japanese wine”, insisted on the introduction of European varieties in order to make “authentic wine”.
In 1998, Mr. Paul Pontallier, the general manager and chief brewer of “Chateau Margaux” was appointed as a brewing advisor. Then in 2003, joint research was started with the Dubourdieu Laboratory at the University of Bordeaux.
In 2021, “Chateau Mercian Mariko Winery” was selected as the 30th place in the world and the best in Asia in the “World’s Best Vineyard 2020”, which selects the world’s best wineries engaged in wine tourism.
Today, Château Mercian vineyards are spread out in five prefectures, Yamanashi, Nagano, Fukushima, Akita and Yamagata. Yesterday, I only visited the Château Mercian’s vineyards and winery in Yamanashi.
Knowing very little about Japanese wine, I found my visit a very impressive experience. Mercian has a nice museum providing information on both the history of Japan’s wine industry as well as Château Mercian. The buildings and wine making facilities are very modern.
The visit finished with a tasting of four wines, two based on Japanese grape varieties, namely Koshu and Muscat Bailey A, and the other two based on Chardonnay and Merlot. These Japanese wines have their own character, less complex and rich than the French grape varieties, but elegant, refined and subtle.
In discussions with the guide, I learnt that Yamanashi wines are being adversely affected by climate change. Château Mercian is adapting by planting vines at higher altitudes, and experimenting with hot climate grape varieties.