A day in Pont-l’Évêque
Pont-l’Évêque (bishop’s bridge in English) is a lovely little French town, located between Deauville and Lisieux in Normandy, about 200 km west of Paris.
Walking along the main street, as I did, you notice the enormous church dedicated to Saint Michel, in flamboyant gothic style (see photo). Its western tower dates from the 13th century, while the northern part dates from the 15th century.
The river Touques flows through Pont-l’Évêque, which takes its name from a bridge (pont) built over the river. Starting in the 10th century, the local bishop (évêque) took responsibility for building and repairing the bridges and roads in France.
The main street also has many Tudor-style houses (“maison à colombage”), — see the photo of the restaurant where I had a delicious lunch.
But Pont-l’Évêque is most famous for the cheese which takes its name, and is produced in the area. It is probably the oldest Norman cheese still in production, being made since at least the 12th century. It is generally ranked alongside Brie, Camembert, and Roquefort as one of the most popular cheeses in France.
Pont-l’Évêque is an uncooked, unpressed cow’s-milk cheese, square in shape usually at around 10 cm (3.9 in) square and around 3 cm (1.2 in) high, weighing 400 grams (14 oz). The central pâte is soft, creamy pale yellow in colour with a smooth, fine texture and has a pungent aroma.
Fortunately on the day of my visit, the local market was open. So I was able to buy some Pont-l’Évêque cheese, examine the other local produce and interview the people at the market.
So what should you drink with Pont-l’Évêque’s delicious cheese?
First, please remember I was in Normandy, where there are virtually no vineyards. But there are lots of apple production, some of which is used to make cider and Calvados. So it was not surprising that some of my interlocutors recommended apple cider as an accompaniment with Pont-l’Évêque cheese.
In a France which is modernising amazingly, some recommended a white wine, such as a White Burgundy (Chardonnay), which is increasingly consumed with cheese. And of course there were the traditionalists who stuck with red wine. But even here, some insisted on a light red wine from the Loire valley, while others opted for a Bordeaux (especially Saint-Émilion).
For my part, I drank a sweet dessert wine (“moelleux”), Côte de Gascogne, “Le Noisette”. The rich intensity and sweetness of the wine was perfect with the rich creaminess of the cheese.