Wine in Normandy?
Normandy is very well known for its apples. These can be used to make cider and Calvados, a sort of apple brandy affectionately known as “Calva”.
There is also “Pommeau”, another alcoholic drink made by mixing apple juice with apple brandy. And then there are delicious apple tarts, of which there are several variants.
As it happens, my good friends, Lindie and Bruno, have a beautiful house in Lower Normandy (Basse-Normandie), which is surrounded by several varieties of apple trees (see photos).
At the time of my visit, mid-September, the apples were beautifully ripe for crunching. And the whole valley in which their house is located is a natural paradise.
Could Normandy ever pivot from apples to grapes?
Strange as it may seem, doing some research for my trip, I discovered that grape vines and winemaking are coming back to Normandy. Indeed, grape vines were cultivated for winemaking in Normandy during ancient times, but their production ceased in the later part of the 19th century. The reason for this is said to be the change in the microclimate of this region.
Today, there is now one vineyard in Normandy which is surprisingly successful. The vineyard, “Arpents du Soleil” (Acres of Sun), is located in the southeastern side of Caen in the valley of ‘Grisy Village’ and is owned by former lawyer Gérard Samson. What is amazing is that there was actually a vineyard on this site until the French Revolution.
Samson says – “The terroir is truly exceptional here” – “This beautiful area is blessed with a microclimate that provides ideal conditions for producing unique wines. It is probably one of the driest parts of Normandy, and the hill on which the grapes grow faces south.”
The first vintage year for Domaine Arpents du Soleil was 1998. Both red and white wines are being produced using the following grape varieties – Pinot Noir, Auxerrois, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Melon, Müller-Thurgau, Sauvignon Gris. And against all the odds, this vineyard is sustaining and winning several awards for its quality wines.
Les Arpents du Soleil might well be Normandy’s best-kept secret. Quite honestly, I have not yet visited this vineyard. But it is now top of my list of things to do!