A visit to Alsace
Here I am in Marlenheim at the top of Alsace’s “route du vin”. Alsace has alternated between German and French control over the centuries.
But while Alsace is politically part of France today, it feels very much German. Marlenheim is a pretty little village, clean and neat, with Germanic style architecture.
When it comes to wine, most of the seven Alsacian grapes are also Germanic. The dry ones are: Sylvaner, Pinot Blanc, and Riesling. The sweeter ones are: Muscat d’Alsace, Tokay Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer. And Alsace also makes a red wine with Pinot Noir. But like most areas in France, winemakers now generate a vast array of products like sparkling wine and rose.
Much Alsatian wine is made by “négociants” who buy grapes from viticulteurs, and blend the different grapes to optimise the quality of their wines. For some very good grapes, wines are made from grapes from a single vineyard “parcel”.
Alsace offers wines to suit all tastes — dry and sweet, still and sparkling, and white and red. But Alsatian wines can also be paired with all phases with a meal. We’ll talk about that in more detail next time.
Alsace is also perfect for the intrepid wine walker. The region’s vineyards run along the foothills of the beautiful Vosges mountains.
When I arrived, I didn’t have a plan or a map (as usual). But from the main street of Marlenheim you can see the vineyards climbing up the foothills of the Vosges.
So I just walked up the slopes until the point where the vineyards met the forest. It was quite a walk up the steep hill, but wonderful galloping through the vines and looking back over Marlenheim and the neighbouring village of Wasselonne.
On the way up I made a new friend, “Pierre”, who was pruning the Gewurztraminer vines owned by his 90 year old mother. These vines have been in Pierre’s family for generations. And although Pierre is a high school teacher (just about to retire), he feels a strong connection to his family’s terroir and just loves working there.
Logistics
TGV fast train from Paris Gare de l’Est to Strasbourg. Then a taxi to Marleheim. There is a bus from Strasbourg to Marleheim if you are more patient than me.