Down to Savennières
Savennières is a lovely little town about 15 km south west of Angers, just near the river Loire. The church, Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Romain, possibly built in the 10th century, or earlier, is a jewel.
Savennières is best known for its excellent still white wine, made from Chenin blanc grapes. It is a very small appellation. Unlike Vouvray, which we covered in an earlier article, and where chenin blanc is grown predominantly on clay and limestone soils, the grapes of Savennières are grown on schist. This helps to give the wines very different characters.
The area’s outstanding natural conditions were probably first identified during the Roman invasions. Vine growing developed at the time of the large monasteries, and was subsequently continued by landowners and then, in the 19th century, by Angers’ middle classes.
The wines are mostly dry, often produced in a powerful style, and typically more full-bodied than dry Vouvray wine, with flavors of warm straw, beeswax and chamomile. The best examples have discernible minerality and the ripest even a honeyed tinge. As Wine Bible author Karen MacNeil eloquently describes them: “Savennières tastes like nothing else. It’s a whirlwind of quince, chamomile, honey, and cream, all pierced by a lightning bolt of citrus.” It is relatively high in acidity and can mature nicely over a long period, reportedly up to 20 years.
As I discovered through my wine walking, Savennières is literally surrounded by vineyards. But France is currently experiencing a heatwave, with the temperature rising to 40 degrees on the day of my visit, and the soil was very dry and the leaves were drooping. Savennières typically has a temperate climate, so this year’s vintage will likely suffer, especially for its typical acidity.
Nicolas Joly is reportedly the most well-known producer of Savennières. But I visited the Domaine du Closel, a family-run, organic winery, for a tasting of its excellent wines. It is one of the largest producers in Savennières, and has been producing wine since 1495. Then I wandered around the park surrounding the chateau, and galloped up the hill to see the vineyards.
What better way to finish off a wine walk than a nice little lunch with a glass of Savennières!
Logistics
TGV fast train from Paris Montparnasse to Angers. Than a taxi to Savennieres.