Saint-Cirq-Lapopie
Saint-Cirq-Lapopie is stunningly beautiful. It is a medieval village, perched on a steep cliff, 100 metres above a meander of the Lot River, about 30 km east of Cahors (see photos).
Fortunately, I had a local taxi driver, Baptiste, who drove me all the way from Montcuq. A bit expensive, but worth it, as he was also a great guide.
We approached Saint-Cirq from the top, and drove down through the village. The top route offers spectacular views down on the village and the Lot River.
Once we reached the Lot River, we turned around and drove back up again. The upward route offers another set of stunning views.
Ancient history is often a blend of fact and legend. And Saint-Cirq is no exception. According to Christian legend, the village owes its name to Saint Cyr, and it is believed that St. Amadour returned the holy man’s relics from Asia Minor in the 3rd century AD, adding to Saint Cyr’s spiritual significance and allure.
The Saint-Cirq that we see today is a masterpiece of the medieval era. Construction of the fort started in the 10th century. During and after the 13th century the fort was inhabited by three families, one of which held the name “Lapopie”. The fort fell into disrepair after the 16th century.
Today, the village has been all spruced up. The many historical monuments, notably the Saint-Cirq Church, constructed in the early 16th century, have been all restored for the masses of tourists who visit Saint-Cirq,
Saint-Cirq is also on the pilgrimage trail of Camino de Santiago (in English the Way of St. James), and thus attracts many brave pilgrims.
There are no vineyards in Saint-Cirq, nor does it produce any wine. But it does have a little wine museum, Le Musée du Vin. Though modest and unpretentious, it offers interesting and useful information on the wines of Cahors and the Lot Valley.
Today, Saint-Cirq has a Disneyland quality, as the whole town is oriented to attracting and serving tourists. This is the price of being a beautiful cultural attraction.
For my visit, perhaps the highlight was walking down the local trail from the Saint-Cirq to my hotel which is just on the other side of the Lot River. The walk itself was stunningly beautiful, as it meandered through the outskirts of the village, and then through the forests below the village.
It was enjoyable for this old hiker (“randonneur”) to stretch his legs, under the weight of a heavy backpack. I was also able to take advantage of one of the benefits of Saint-Cirq being a tourist trap, in the form of the many ice cream shops, which refreshed my weary bones along the walk.