Paris’ oldest Chinatown
Somewhat curiously, as China becomes richer and more powerful, increasing numbers of Chinese are leaving their home country.
One consequence is that many of the world’s big cities have not one, but several Chinatowns. The centre of Paris has at least three Chinatowns, with even more in the suburbs.
Every Parisian knows the biggest Chinatown, in the 13th arrondissement. And most also know the one in Belleville, in the 20th arrondissement.
But all my French friends are surprised when I suggest eating in the Chinatown located in the 3rd arrondissement, near the Arts et Métiers metro. They have never heard of it.
This is disappointing. It may be Paris’ smallest Chinatown, but it is also the oldest and best. In fact, Chinatown of the 3rd arrondissement has a very rich and interesting history.
Some of the Chinese residents of this Chinatown would be related to Chinese immigrants who arrived in France in the early 1900s. Chinese migrants specialising in the leather and Chinese porcelain industries came to Paris from China’s Wenzhou region.
Then during World War I, a large number of Chinese labourers, also principally from Wenzhou, were recruited by the French government to help with war efforts. Some of those Chinese also decided to stay in France.
This micro Chinatown may not be highly visible. But it sits on the edge of a hip area, the Marais, and close to Centre Pompidou. It is bounded by Rue au Maire, Rue Volta, Rue du Temple and Rue des Gravilliers.
Today, this Chinatown is home to several excellent Chinese restaurants, supermarkets and wholesalers. My favourite restaurant is “Maison De Chengdu”, offering spectacularly good Sichuanese cuisine.
Ken and I always go there for Monday lunch. My favourite dish is Mapo Tofu, although I sometimes take the spicy eggplant dish. Ken’s favourite dish is spicy fried rice. After this main course, we cross the road to Shodai Matcha for a little ice cream. Another favourite restaurant of mine is “Les Artistes du Ravioli”.
For lovers of historic architecture, you can also appeciate one of the oldest houses of Paris, constructed in the beginning of the 17th century, at 3 rue Volta.
So do yourself a favour and visit my favourite Parisian Chinatown.